I suppose it was just another ordinary day in Hong Kong, but following hot on the heels of yesterday's discussion of
kiasu (what Lau Siu Kai - one time Professor of Banality somewhere in the New Territories and for ten very long years head of Donald Tsang’s execrable Central Policy Unit- once called in his book
The Ethos of the Hong Kong Chinese the
"egotistical individualism" of his people), my lunchtime ramble with Sharon the IT lady to the local
cha chaan teng took on the extra significance that heightened awareness tends to give to even the most humdrum event.
The first occurence of the syndrome took place when we were passing through the car park recently immortalised by the
Lady of the Umbrella. As we approached the double swing doors into the mall, there were two groups of two ahead of us. As they got closer to the exit, the couple immediately ahead of us suddenly sped up, closing the gap between them and the couple ahead of
them.
I thought perhaps they were together (have you ever noticed that you can have people ahead of you in a queue in Hong Kong for ages before they give any indication that they are together, say, members of the same family?), but no. The second dyad had suddenly seen their chance not only to get through the swing doors without having to touch them, but also to make sure we couldn't follow them by expending only minimal effort.
To manage this, the couple had to perform the Hong Kong Door Dance, which involves twisting your body in a variation of the limbo – one that takes place on the
vertical plane.
Door negotiated, we made our way to the restaurant, which is always crowded. As luck would have it, three seats were free over in the corner, which is considered a desirable spot as a) you're in a cul-de-sac and so can't have soup tipped over you by a waiter and b) you get a window-style table with high seat backs.
Having negotiated our way past a punter complaining that he'd been brought the wrong order and two builders who'd decided to keep their torsos on display for the delectation of their fellow diners, we arrived to be greeted by the occupier – who resolutely refused to look at us – and by his three bags, which were occupying the other seats and seemed more friendly, even if they had nothing to say.
"Watch this," I said to Sharon, keen to demonstrate one of the tricks I had learned during my quarter-century acculturation process, proceeding as if to sit down on the fellow's
Wellcome shopping bag.
As if by magic, with neither of us looking at the other, the bag was whipped across the table and deposited next to his other shopping bag. In a further swift manoeuvre, the laptop bag was snared and put to rest beside its owner next to the wall, allowing Sharon and I to sit down and order.
One more
kiasu moment awaited me, but I was prepared. I'd already built up roughly a 50% success rate at this procedure and was determined to improve my record in front of my colleague.
In common with many other cashiers in Hong Kong, the woman in charge of the till at this
chaan teng takes her job very seriously and has established a ten-square-feet mini kingdom of her own. Anyone wishing to leave her realm unharmed and without having been put under a hex must play by the rules, one of the most important of which is to take your change from the little metal plate into which she insists on depositing it, especially when a customer holds out their hand as an alternative receptacle.
I must say that perfecting the art of getting the cashier to drop the coins in my palm rather than in the tray took a fair bit of work, several of my earlier attempts having ended up in mid-air collisions which saw coins bouncing around on the floor on either side of the border.
But, I have learnt that, like everything else in Hong Kong, unflinching resolution and adamantine stoutness of heart is required. Having proffered her the banknote, I wasted no time on subtleties, merely shoving my paw over the entire extent of the plate, and not so high above it as to allow her to dip in between flesh and metal to accomplish her mission.
It may take time, it may require flouting of those chivalric customs with which you have been brought up, but the reward for knowing that you have taken on a champion on their own turf and emerged from the field victorious is a feeling like no other.