On the day when our Chief Executive gives his optimistically named policy speech to the Legislative Council, it is only fitting that I honour Sir Donald Tsang the best I know how. Seeing that the Scots name all their mountains over 3,000 feet "Munros", then I am going to call Hong Kong hills that come in at over 600 metres (roughly 2,000 feet) "Tsangros", after the man who makes them all look like Mt Everest, even after mounting the mini podium put out for him by his aides.
Coming in at 702 metres, Ma On Shan,
GSP Heywood's favourite hill, is Hong Kong's fourth highest peak after Tai Mo Shan,
Lantau Peak and
Sunset Peak. Since Heywood waxes so lyrically on this fine saddle shaped hill, it's worth quoting him at some length:
"Its steep wooded slopes falling straight to the sea, and the graceful curve of the skyline between the two peaks, make it the most beautiful of our mountains. It is a fine climb by any route, and on a clear day the view from the summit is unsurpassed; to the west Tai Mo Shan shows its full height; to the north-east, seeming almost beneath one's feet so steep is the slope, lies Tolo Channel, and beyond it are blue hills and blue water along miles of coast to Bias Bay in the distance."
Although some things have changed – Bias Bay, the pirate haunt where 30,000 Japanese landed on their way to take Canton (now Guangzhou) in October 1938, has been renamed Daya Bay and is now home to four nuclear power stations, and reclamation to form the new town named after the mountain has narrowed Tolo Harbour somewhat – the views are still unsurpassed, especially on a clear summer day after heavy rain.
The 26th of July 2009 was just such a day and the visibility was so good that I could make out the Dangan Islands more than 50 kilometres away to the south. Enshrouded in its pall of pollution, it was appropriate that the magic should not be broken by views of the monstrous metropolis of Shenzhen half that distance to the north-west.
My route took me up the Hunchback ridge, access to which has been greatly improved since Heywood's day by a splendid woodland path that takes you from your starting point, just off Ma On Shan Tsuen Road, to the foot of the Hunchbacks above Ma On Shan Tsuen (or Ma On Shan Village), where the ascent of Ma On Shan proper might be said to begin. (Needless to say, the route to the summit favoured by Heywood, the "north-east face" from Nai Chung, is so overgrown now as to be impassible. Is there any brave person out there who has taken this route and lived to tell the tale?)
If you're coming by taxi, you should follow signs to Ma On Shan Town Centre. When you come to the first roundabout, turn right for Ma On Shan Village. After about 600 metres you come to a junction, with the road to the village meandering off to the right. You can get off here and walk up the other road, to the left. The start of the walk proper is just 100 metres up on the right.
Alternatively, if you're taking the bus, those terminating at Yiu On Estate (43X and 81C) or Heng On Estate (85K and 89C) are your best bet. (The 85K will pick you up from Sha Tin Railway Station.) You just need to walk a short distance up Hang Hong Street to the roundabout already mentioned, signed Ma On Shan Village, and pick up the trail from there.
The actual path, starting to the right of what is currently an enormous fence across the road, is traversed by old people who take it for their morning exercise to reach the pagoda that you will come to after a few minutes. It is at this point that the walk proper begins. Depending on the weather and your level of fitness, it will take anywhere between 45 minutes and an hour and a half to reach the path that heads off to the left at the base of the Hunchbacks. The first part of the initial ramble is quite steep and in summer the vegetation encroaches on the narrow, compacted path. The second part, a virtual switchback where you are heading back on yourself in a west-south-west direction, is almost flat: very pleasant walking in the shade of mature trees, with streams at which you can cool yourself down crossing the path at intervals.
You will know when you've reached the Hunchback path because the very first part is steep enough to warrant ropes being supplied by some kind person. (If I remember right, there's also a Government sign telling you to proceed further only if fully equipped with snow goggles and crampons – always the sign of a decent walk to come.) In fact, much of the early part of the ascent of the three Hunchbacks is be-roped, so you can save quite a bit of energy by hauling yourself up. Once you've reached the third bump, you're left with one large roller-coaster like swing down and back up before you're at the top.
After you've savoured the moment, there are a variety of ways down. The easiest is to join the Maclehose Trail a few hundred metres below the summit and head off left. You can either stick on the Trail and pick up a 299 bus on the Sai Sha Road (left to Sha Tin, right to Sai Kung), or you can turn right two thirds of the way down along the metalled road to Sai Kung via Shan Liu.
The whole walk took me more than five hours, but I was rather out of condition and it was pretty warm. Fit types will no doubt want to polish off a fair bit of southbound section 4 of the Maclehose before they call it a day, or, as Heywood might put it, call for their sampan back to civilisation.
For an excellent view of the ascent via the Hunchbacks, check out
Big White Guy (click thumbnail to enlarge).