
Lantau Peak and Nei Lak Shan (from the Wong Lung Hang Trail)
For this, the first in a weekly series of rambling ruminations, I will take the reader with me up Sunset Peak (literal translation "Big East Mountain"), the third highest peak in Hong Kong after Tai Mo Shan and Lantau Peak.
There are, as may be imagined, a number of ways to tackle this 869-metre hill. In the past, I've made the ascent on the Lantau Trail from the west (having done Lantau Peak and then crossed the Tung Chung Road) and from the east (from Nam Shan/Mui Wo). But the climbs from the other two compass points (well, from the north-west and the south-east, if you want to be pedantic) are a lot more challenging and a lot more fun.
When I was living in Pui O many moons ago, I took the path from there (this is the south-east climb). It was a foggy day and I remember feeling as remote from civilisation as I'd ever felt up to that moment in the colony, as the track disappeared in swirling mists worthy of Basil Rathbone and Nigel Bruce on the trail of the Hound of the Baskervilles. (What a pointless story that is, by the way.)
The only time that I have since felt more isolated in Hong Kong was when I ran out of path in the north-east New Territories near a deserted village. Making one last attempt to break through to the coast and thus preserve my proud record of never having been forced back on the path by which I had come, I came face to face with a very large and very black snake which was coiled up on the seasonally overgrown path.
I have since made it one of my life goals to identify that serpent (all the other snakes I've come across locally being pretty unimpressive, to be honest – small and brown or green, and all looking uncannily like the rubber snakes I used to leave in my kid sister's bed), but I remain thwarted. It is, I now realise, a microcosm of life in general, the kind of lesson you can only learn by experience, like cutting your finger on the corned beef tin with the key opener that you can never get to go round the can in one go. I guess that's why they made the tins the shape they did – to build character and sell Elastoplasts. I suspect I will go to my grave not knowing whether it was a rat snake (harmless, I believe) or a Chinese black cobra (which specialises in sending people to their graves) or something else. When dining out, it is of course a cobra and this thick.
Back to this year's Sunset Peak trek and I decided to do a circular walk starting in Tung Chung – the new town that sought to rewrite the old saying "Build it and they will come" when the colonial Government decided to shoot enormous towers into the sky in arguably the most polluted place in the territory, a giant diesel particulate trap where all the muck from the Pearl River Delta is deposited after slamming against a wall of mountains that stand sentinel over the place with a look that seems to say, "You Chinese can claim all the credit you like for the airport, but we Brits have bequeathed you Tung Chung". As a result of which, large numbers of young couples who bought boxes in North Lantau have now upped sticks and moved back in with their parents in the Mid-levels Ghetto.
If you take a bus, you need to get off at the first stop after leaving the North Lantau Highway, just past the splendidly named Tung Chung Fire Station-cum-Ambulance Depot.
There are, as may be imagined, a number of ways to tackle this 869-metre hill. In the past, I've made the ascent on the Lantau Trail from the west (having done Lantau Peak and then crossed the Tung Chung Road) and from the east (from Nam Shan/Mui Wo). But the climbs from the other two compass points (well, from the north-west and the south-east, if you want to be pedantic) are a lot more challenging and a lot more fun.
When I was living in Pui O many moons ago, I took the path from there (this is the south-east climb). It was a foggy day and I remember feeling as remote from civilisation as I'd ever felt up to that moment in the colony, as the track disappeared in swirling mists worthy of Basil Rathbone and Nigel Bruce on the trail of the Hound of the Baskervilles. (What a pointless story that is, by the way.)
The only time that I have since felt more isolated in Hong Kong was when I ran out of path in the north-east New Territories near a deserted village. Making one last attempt to break through to the coast and thus preserve my proud record of never having been forced back on the path by which I had come, I came face to face with a very large and very black snake which was coiled up on the seasonally overgrown path.
I have since made it one of my life goals to identify that serpent (all the other snakes I've come across locally being pretty unimpressive, to be honest – small and brown or green, and all looking uncannily like the rubber snakes I used to leave in my kid sister's bed), but I remain thwarted. It is, I now realise, a microcosm of life in general, the kind of lesson you can only learn by experience, like cutting your finger on the corned beef tin with the key opener that you can never get to go round the can in one go. I guess that's why they made the tins the shape they did – to build character and sell Elastoplasts. I suspect I will go to my grave not knowing whether it was a rat snake (harmless, I believe) or a Chinese black cobra (which specialises in sending people to their graves) or something else. When dining out, it is of course a cobra and this thick.
Back to this year's Sunset Peak trek and I decided to do a circular walk starting in Tung Chung – the new town that sought to rewrite the old saying "Build it and they will come" when the colonial Government decided to shoot enormous towers into the sky in arguably the most polluted place in the territory, a giant diesel particulate trap where all the muck from the Pearl River Delta is deposited after slamming against a wall of mountains that stand sentinel over the place with a look that seems to say, "You Chinese can claim all the credit you like for the airport, but we Brits have bequeathed you Tung Chung". As a result of which, large numbers of young couples who bought boxes in North Lantau have now upped sticks and moved back in with their parents in the Mid-levels Ghetto.
If you take a bus, you need to get off at the first stop after leaving the North Lantau Highway, just past the splendidly named Tung Chung Fire Station-cum-Ambulance Depot.
From here it's a twenty minute walk on pavements to the start of the walk proper near the end of Wong Lung Hang Road. (Walk back to the main road, take the bridge that crosses the dual carriageway, then hang a right followed by a left onto Wong Lung Hang Road.)
The Government should be congratulated for the construction of the Wong Lung Hang Trail, since it does all but the most Xtreme walker a great service by rendering an otherwise very steep and pretty treacherous ascent/descent accessible and safe by means of stone steps. (Note: rather than taking the path towards Sunset Peak, intrepid types can keep going and scramble over the rocks to theWang Lung Waterfalls .)
One of the attractions of the trail is that it takes you through mature woodland, which means it's both shaded from the sun and very beautiful. You also cross many streams where you can enjoy a rinse and a drink. In one of these I disturbed a dark grey fish, about 4-5 inches in length, which darted around in his little pool before hiding under the rocks. All attempts to identify him using my Hills and Streams: an Ecology of Hong Kong, by HKU ecologists David Dudgeon (a freshwater specialist who even sounds like a fish) and Richard Corlett, have resulted in failure, which isn't really surprising, since my ichthyological knowledge is considerably less impressive than my ability to use long Greek words. The little fellow was also totally unimpressed with my attempts to lure him to perform in front of the camera by dropping bits of my cheese and pickle sandwich into his pool – but he wasn't going to get any of my hard-boiled free range egg or my Beddar Cheddar sausage. [to be continued]
The Government should be congratulated for the construction of the Wong Lung Hang Trail, since it does all but the most Xtreme walker a great service by rendering an otherwise very steep and pretty treacherous ascent/descent accessible and safe by means of stone steps. (Note: rather than taking the path towards Sunset Peak, intrepid types can keep going and scramble over the rocks to the
One of the attractions of the trail is that it takes you through mature woodland, which means it's both shaded from the sun and very beautiful. You also cross many streams where you can enjoy a rinse and a drink. In one of these I disturbed a dark grey fish, about 4-5 inches in length, which darted around in his little pool before hiding under the rocks. All attempts to identify him using my Hills and Streams: an Ecology of Hong Kong, by HKU ecologists David Dudgeon (a freshwater specialist who even sounds like a fish) and Richard Corlett, have resulted in failure, which isn't really surprising, since my ichthyological knowledge is considerably less impressive than my ability to use long Greek words. The little fellow was also totally unimpressed with my attempts to lure him to perform in front of the camera by dropping bits of my cheese and pickle sandwich into his pool – but he wasn't going to get any of my hard-boiled free range egg or my Beddar Cheddar sausage. [to be continued]







